EUROPE

Greece 3.0 : Naxos & Paros

It’s becoming kind of a ritual, making Greece part of our yearly summer holidays. Within Europe it’s one of those countries, where we easily feel at home. Is it the Greek people, their climate, their food? Or it’s just maybe a bit of everything thrown together, that convinces us as a whole. This year, it would be our third visit to the Cyclades within a two year period. We don’t ever get tired of it.

Naxos.

As usual, we landed in Athens. Our favorite taxi driver Dimitris would pick us up at the airport, and bring us to the same bargain hotel, where we stay at every time we set food in Athens. Dimitris became part of our journey in Greece, as he picks us up, and drops us wherever, and whenever we need his service. Such a gentleman!

We only spent 1 night in Athens, but we tried as much food as we could on the first day. We can’t get enough, the food scene in Athens is a one of a kind.

Our new destination within the Cyclades would be Naxos this year. We heard lots about it, read its name in many reviews and blogs. However we still didn’t know what to expect, as beating Paros would be a though challenge. Funnily this year, the ferry ride was more entertaining, as our daughter Valentina, was socialising with everybody on the boat. It wasn’t as relaxing for us, compared to having a nap for the following three hours. But we got to meet a young couple from Athens, and a few other parents with their kids.

Three hours later we hit Naxos. At first sight it didn’t look as cozy as Paros (Nausa). We still were ready to give it a chance. The temperatures on the island were very summer-ish. We enjoyed the white houses surrounded by hills and the sea. That’s what we were looking for. While walking along the biggest pedestrian road, leading to our hotel, we noticed the countless restaurants and bars, and we couldn’t wait any longer to try them all. This year, compared to 2021, the prices of the hotels had doubled. You could notice the difference.

As we were traveling with a one year old kid, we didn’t plan to visit any sights outside of the city center, as we only stayed for 3 nights. Nearby our hotel, we checked out the Agios Georgios Beach. It wasn’t an eyercatcher, however we just wouldn’t mind, as we were enjoying our time in Greece.

The center of Naxos has its nice parts. You will get some descent places for dinner. There aren’t too many appealing bars. Our two favorite ones were the funky “Swing” and the rather cosy “Kitron” (where all the drinks were mixed with a local liquor that is made with the plant …guess the name… Kitron). Having a drink at Swing , we run into the couple that we met on the boat.

On our last day we discovered the Old Town Market. It looks typically greek, like the shopping alleys in Mykonos and Nausa. In the white maze, we randomly discovered the cute restaurant “Apostolis”, definitely an eye catcher, and so was the food.

As we stayed 3 days in Naxos, there’s plenty of choice from wine bars, cocktail bars, fish restaurants, Greek taverns. At night it gets really touristy, as thousands of people are walking up and down the pedestrian street. Lots of pretty people though. We enjoyed our drinks with a seaview.

As for myself, my favorite part in Naxos would but the bathing place, right next to the harbor, and in front of the Portara monument. It’s a place where many locals jump into the water to cool down, during the hot afternoons. It’s the place where old and young people meet. To me it just felt authentically greek. No bars, no shops, just salted water and a rocky landscape that surrounds it. The cruiser boats just next it, just diminishes its charm, however it really didn’t really bother me during my swimming session.

Naxos passed the test. It just wouldn’t compete against our still favorite place in Greece (Paros), however we noticed that there’s something likeable about Naxos. It’s most definitely touristic, and it doesn’t offer the vibe of our favorite island, however you can spend some lovely days in Naxos, and enjoy everything that we love about Greece: kind people, amazing food, the sun and the sea. And of course visiting neighbouring islands during the day would be another option, if you spend more days in Naxos.

Paros, mon amour.

Visiting one place for a second time, can be daring at some point. Usually if you do get back to a city, it’s because you loved it so much, and just can’t wait to feel that emotion of joy and pleasure again. However if we won’t feel the same joy again on the second trip, it could end up as a disappointment. Normally the second trip needs to convince as much, or even more, to make it a worthy comeback. Paros just wouldn’t disappoint this year.

We changed the hotel, as our previous one (from last year) was fully booked. Kind of disappointed we thought the new one wouldn’t fulfill our expectations, but we were wrong. The charming guesthouse “Rivière Residence” was perfectly located in the very center of Naousa. The breakfast was the best, we had ever experienced in Greece. The whole place was just super cosy and it came with a pool. Everybody was happy.

The nightly dinners were just perfect, we felt happy at the right place. We opted to check out different places, instead of the harbor restaurants. “Kapari” was one of the better places, that we discovered in Greece. Great service, excellent food, and the hanging lanterns gave the whole a magnificent vibe after sunset.

Actually we didn’t do that much within the city. We just relaxed with our daughter in the pool, went for some walks through out the city center.

We booked a rental car for one afternoon, as we wanted to explore Anti-Paros. The nice part of the trip to Anti-Paros is, that you drive straight onto the ferry without geting out of the car, and it will bring you to the other side of the ocean within 5-7 minutes. Hassle-free for 10€. Be aware that you only have a bad internet connection on the island. We were looking for some touristic spots on google maps, however we had a hard time making our internet work. The island just looks like any other deserted landscape on the Cyclades. The city center during the day was quite pretty, but because of the high temperatures and barely no shadows along the street, we rushed through it. I can imagine that Anti-Paros is more enjoyable at night, however you always have to rely on your car. So drinking wine and driving back to Naussa, isn’t the best option. We were told by our taxi driver, that Tom Hanks and Monica Bellucci own a villa on Anti-Paros, with the reason that it’s super quiet, and far away from the crowd, as it is less busy or populated than Paros.

As this was already our 3rd holiday-trip on the Cyclades I just would keep repeating myself about our fascination of the islands with its white houses and the blue rooftops. You either love them, or you don’t. While we were meeting up with a friend in Athens, he told us, that he was less impressed with the dry landscapes in Greece, and that he’d rather visit Korfu because of its green natural surrounding. That would definitely be a point, that I could understand.

But once again, we loved Paros (well Naussa) that much, that we decided to get back for summer ‘23.




The Greek Islands: Mykonos & Santorini (with a baby)

What a year it has been so far. The second wave of our pandemic kicked in during the first quarter of the year. Europe locked itself down, and traveling went into pause-mode… again. That same first quarter of 2021, in march, I became a father of our lovely daughter. Three months later, we decided to get out of our country, and see what it feels and looks like to travel with a 3 month old baby.

In my opinion we chose the perfect location to make it an easy journey with a newborn and still experiencing something unique within Europe. It took me too long to make it to Greece, so glad that our daughter had the chance to see those beautiful cities after opening her eyes not too long ago.

Arrival in Athens.

We booked a flight from our homecountry to Athens, as it was the best city that would match our schedule and budget. The arrival happened without a hassle, we just had to hand out our negative result of the PCR test and we were good to go and jumped onto the first taxi waiting in line, outside the airport.

The taxi driver happened to be Dimitris, a gentle 40-year-old man. During the ride he turned off the taxi-meter and the first thing that came up in my head “that man is about to rip you off”, so I asked him, why he decided to turn off the taxi meter. We were told, that we pay a fix price for the airport transfer (35 €), we looked it up online and he was right. He stopped his car just to proove us that he wasn’t lying, showed us a pamphlet with the taxi fares. I almost felt bad for asking.

The good thing about our story, Dimitris seemed to be a very trustful person after our complicated start, that we decided to keep his phone number, and call him for every trip we had in and around Athens.

My impression about Athens.

Initially we didn’t plan on spending too much time in Athens. While preparing our trip, we couldn’t find too many sightseeing spots that would catch our interests. So we decided to book a hotel close to the Acropolis, to witness its beauty in the early morning from our balcony.

We also visited that main attraction in Athens as it was located only 10 minutes walking away from our hotel. To be honest I expected something more impressive. We were glad that the top-hill wasn’t packed with tourists, due to the covid pandemic. However they were still restoring and fixing up the Acropolis. The monument looked like a construction site. The entrance was 20 Euro per person, not the cheapest attraction I’ve been to.

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The Acropolis has been one of those things that I’ve known from the history books since I was a kid, and finally managed to see it in real. Therefor I didn’t regret spending the 20€ bill to see “the show”. You get a pretty impressive view of Athens from top of the hill.

As it was already 18:30 when left the main attraction, we walked downhill towards Plaka, and Monastiraki Square. Without its historical monuments, Athens would be comparable to an average Italian city. The family houses look quite similar. And the city shares another common thing with Italy… the amazing food ! And the show must go on… after our first culinary experience in Athens, we came to the conclusion, that the Greek cuisine made it among our favorites of Europe. On our way back home from the islands, we spent two more days in Athens. We discovered so many hip & fancy looking bars and restaurants. Every dish we ordered was delicious! You can never go wrong with a Greek dinner. I would really love to see what night life looks like, after the city has recovered from the pandemic.

Getting on the ferry.

I wasn’t sure about what to expect from “island hopping”, as that topic always came up when talking about Greece. As there are plenties of islands to discover further away from the mainland of Greece, the choice is yours. We decided to do two of the most popular islands: Mykonos and Santorini. Obviously we knew both islands because of the beautiful photos of those white houses that regularly pop up on social media platforms.

From the city center of Athens, we made it to the Piraeus Port in less than 20 minutes by taxi in the early morning, thanks to Dimitris. There are two ports in Athens, which offer a slightly different time schedule for your ferries to the Islands. The travel-time of the ferries, as well the price, might differ from port to port. (The second one is called Rafina and is located further away from the city center, but closer to the airport).

The prices of one-way tickets vary from 30-70€ per ticket, per person.

There are slower ferries and faster ferries. For example, we booked the “Seajets” ferry to get from Santorini back to Athens. The ride took around 5 hours. With the slower ferry (Blue Star Ferry) it would have lasted over 7 hours. Sometimes it’s worth spending the extra bucks, to make the trip more pleasant.

Mykonos.

As we really didn’t know much about Greece and its many islands, we opted for the two most popular ones: Mykonos & Santorini. As we heard many negative echoes about Mykonos: the jet-setter island, party town for rich kids, the expensive island… all these criterias which actually don’t match with our lifestyle, turned out to be less disturbing, as we really enjoyed our time out there.

What did I like most about Mykonos? It’s clean, it’s less posh than Santorini, distances are shorter, and like we always whispered while walking through the tiny alleys of Mykonos Town: “do you feel the joie de vivre” (joy of life). The scenic view of Little Venice, while having lunch or breakfast is priceless. The tiny Greek houses, a mix of white and pastel colors, the windmills, the waves hitting the shore just two meters away from your dining table. The hospitality of the Greek people is flawless. You just wanna lay back, enjoy the view, and being grateful to have it made to that beautiful island. There aren’t too many attractions. As it was our first trip with a baby, we decided to move on step by step, to get the feel of traveling as a family. And I think it was just the perfect destination to experience it for the first time together. We didn’t care about sightseeing or tourist spots… the white alleys, with detailed pastel colors on the houses, colorful red flowers… it just looked very photogenic, it was such a pleasure to discover the tiny corners of the old town. We spent 3 days in Mykonos, and every day we discovered a new hidden gem, even though the old-town looks pretty much the same.

The first food experience happened in Athens, however the magic just went on in Mykonos. We didn’t have one single bad dish. We kinda fell in love with the Greek cuisine, as we barely ever had real greek food at home.

Prior our adventure, we were told that Mykonos would be super expensive. To be honest, it isn’t more expensive than the country of Luxembourg, where we live. We spent 3 nights at the “Hermes Hotel”. The pick-up and drop at the harbor was for free. The room was quite beautiful, with a big window facing the ocean, which allowed us to witness the daily sunset from our room. Our stay cost 70 euro a night per person (140€ / room). I remember paying 50€ a day in a Hostel in Hamburg. Therefor don’t let the prices of Mykons or Santorini intimidate you. While browsing for hotels in Mykonos, we found lovely apartments for 70€ a night, right in the heart of Mykono’s Old Town.

As we were traveling with our baby daughter, we skipped the beaches, because of the aggressive sunlight, that gave me a rough sunburn on our first days in Mykonos.

On our last day, we headed uphill to the 180° Sunset Bar, which wasn’t located too far away from our hotel. We missed the sunset by half an hour, however we were glad for discovering this gem of a bar which gave you the best view over the bay. The entrance, which came with a free drink, was quite pricey for 20€ per person. However it was all worth it. The design, the tables, the bars and the decoration on site had a feel of the Coachella Festival.

After having enjoyed our stay that much in Mykonos, Santorini had a tough time to top it.

Santorini.

The ferry to Santorini took about 3 hours. While stepping out of the ferry you could already feel that we reached a tourist spot, as the locals were waving with panels for shuttles, car rentals, the different buses. Everything happened with a rush, and it felt like “you gotta leave from here ASAP”. 10 Minutes later, we sat on a shuttle with a bunch of other tourists (50€ for the 3 of us).

Santorini’s two biggest cities are: Oia & its capital Fira.
Where to stay?

To make it short, Oia is nicer to walk around, Fira offers a more impressive view of the ocean surrounding the islands. Oia is posh and has a luxurious feel, Fira gathers the usual tourists. The typical “clichee” photos of Santorini were usually shot in Oia.


We had decided to book 3 nights in Finikia, which was right next to Oia, 15 minutes walking. Even though we were kinda disappointed about Santorini in our first day, as we expected something different, it turned out that Oia was a good starting point to discover the Island, and later on to enjoy the evening walks in the city center.

How could Oia be any kind of disappointment? When following the white shiny marble path to the end of the Island, where everybody’s is heading to see the sunset, you slowly get surrounded by luxurious boutiques of all sorts of expensive brands. Jewelry stores, fashion stores, watch stores… they had it all; Luxurious hotels with an endless amount of swimming pool.

It didn’t feel like the “joie de vivre” we experienced in Mykonos, however rather a tourist trap. Nothing felt traditionally Greek. You can walk through Oia within two hours. As we were visiting during a pandemic year, there were less tourists, which made the city center still enjoyable. The shop keepers told us that during a normal summer, approximately 3000 people would come daily around 8pm to witness the sunset, and that you would have to stand in line 3 hours before sunset, to get a descent view. Thank god, the place was less loaded in 2021.

Oia is located on the very top of a hill. You can walk down to Ammoudi Bay, that looks like a charming fisher village, surrounded by cute little houses and lots of fisher boats. However on site, it turned out that Ammoudi Bay was a bay packed with restaurants to attract the tourists. We skipped it, nevertheless the bay was worth a photo.

We rented a car (35€ a day) and visited a couple of places, spread across the island: Red Rock Beach, Fira, White Beach, Pyrgos and the Akrotiri Lighthouse. Besides Oia and Fira, no other spot was a must-see.

As we were glad having it made two both islands on the same trip, we clearly prefered our stay in Mykonos. While getting back to Athens with the ferry, we passed Ios, Naxos, and a couple of other beauties. All these looked cosier and more enjoyable than Santorini.

Spending another day in Athens and we didn’t get bored. We managed to discover a bunch of entertaining night-life streets and a couple of shops. Athens wouldn’t be the place we could recommend for a city-trip, however it’s the perfect starting poing to visit Greece. Every night in Athens we enjoyed the evening walks to the restaurant, through the very lively alleys, while having a view onto the Acropolis.


To me, Greece fullfilled all the expecations I could have on a trip:

  • great food & drinks (sometimes pretty cheap as well!)

  • if I can post more than 2 photos a day on instagram, and I get enough footage for a travel video, you can consider Greece to be quite photogenic. The pastel colors of the architecture, and the scenic blue & greenish landscapes makes the country very attractive for photographers and videographers.

  • the hospitality of the greek people was out of this world. thank you!

  • getting around with the ferries was very convenient, and made traveling easy, even with a baby.

If Asia or America won’t open any time soon, we would definitely come back to Greece in 2021.

Last days of summer in Portugal... again

This would have been my first “boys trip” within the two years of my actual relationship. As the covid restrictions were still available across the whole summer, there weren’t many options left, to find a destination that was “liberal” enough, to give you the feel of a “boys-night-out”, fabulous dinners, good wine and still enough sightseeing. As I just finished another Portugal roadtrip in August, I thought it wouldn’t be a bad idea to head back, as I already knew the places and directions, so we could get the best out of 7 nights, without losing much time.

Lagos & the rest of the Algarve.

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As we had spent our couple of days in Lagos (Algarve) in August, and following our daytrips to other villages and cities in the Algarve, we decided to spend 3 days at the wonderful “Villa Dinis Hotel”. Nothing would beat its perfect location, close to two neighbouring beaches, the light-house with a wonderful sunset spot, and it was only a 10-minute walk afar from the center.

It just felt wonderful enjoy summerish weather during the last days of september.

As I was traveling with 2 indian friends who haven’t been in the south of Portugal yet, we tried to make it as diverse as possible: shopping, food & booze, beach time and sightseeing. All this, without any hassle.

The largest beach “Praia de Dona Ana” was only a short walk away from out hotel. We decided to spend there an hour or two every morning, as we knew, as soon as we would head back home, summertime would be over.

 

What could we do within two days in the Algarve ?

  • Lagos sunset

  • visiting the Benagil cave by kayak

  • witness the beauty of the “Praia da Bordeira”

  • Tapas dinner

  • devine sea-food experience

The kayak-tour definitely was the highlight of our two days in the Algarve. I had the chance to visit the Benagil cave a couple of years ago, however that time we did it by boat-tour. This time we were lucky enough, to rent a kayak for 15€ (1 kayak for 2 people, 60 minutes). A free life-vest was available with a deposit of 20€. The best part was that we could do it by ourselves without any guide or tour. Once you arrive at the “Benagil Parking”, walk down to the beach “Praia Benagil”, by following th road, as many people were misleaded to the top of the cave which is on the same level as the parking. To make it to the cave, you gotta get down the street to the sea-level. On the way down, you will find several rental-booths.

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A sunset, just another sunset… you’re right. But it’s for free, and it’s definitely very pretty.

After you’ve been to a couple of beaches in the Algarve, they all kind look alike. In Lagos you can enjoy one of the pretty & cosy ones “Praia do Camilo” which is nice to visit during sunrise. The “Praia da Bordeira” is the opposite, a broad scenic beach packed with countless waves and surfers.

For the sea-food part, and after having tried two hand fulls of restaurants, there’s no better seafood restaurant than the Cantinho Algarvio (R. Afonso de Almeida nº21, 8600-674 Lagos, Portugal). All the dishes we tried were flawless, high quality food with fair prices.

Lisbon.

My 11th stay in Lisobn, and guess what? I still managed to explore unknown territory.

Covid restrictions didn’t make it easier in Lisbon. The bars weren’t allowed to serve drinks after 20:00 (8pm) without food. Most places had to shut their doors at 23:00 (11pm). We spent 4 nights in Lisbon, at the legendary Yes Hostel. The hostel was still kinda busy during a period where you didn’t expect people traveling. Lagos for examples was pretty dead, compared the previous high-season month. In August the city center of Lagos was super busy (despite covid times), at the end of september barely 10% of its visitors remained.

Lisbon was different, but still lively enough to make the best out of the trip.

The popular “Park” rooftop bar was a quite different experience. Usually it’s so packed that you rarely get a seated place. This time there were only seated places available. It was much more enjoyable, less people, no noisy music… just the right vibe to enjoy the sunset with a splendid view over the rooftops of Lisbon.

In Belem, there was no waiting line in front of the famous Belem pastery-bakery. We just walked in, got seated and enjoyed the some delicious pastel de natas. Everything seamed more easygoing during Covid.

It was my first trop to the “Cristo Rei”, the big statue of the Christ (which reminds us of the one in Brasil), located in Almada, just across the sea. I wouldn’t consider it as a must see. However the whole experience is worth it: taking a ferry at “Cais do Sodre” terminal, making it to Almada across the canal for 2,5 €, walking up to the Christ, and experience the scenic view of the “Golden Gate Bridge” (bridge “Ponte 25 de Abril”, which looks almost identicak to Golden Gate in San Francisco). The viewpoint is definitely the best one to enjoy the architecture of the bridge.

Getting on top of the Christ by elevator isn’t really necessary, as the view doesn’t get that much better.

As we were traveling with two indian friends, they really felt the urge to have an indian dinner all together. Funnily we met two portugese gentlemen at the “Park” rooftop bar, due to Vinoy who started joking with them. They decided to bring us to the best indian restaurant I’ve ever been to. After several trips to India and endless indian food i tried in my life, this restaurant called “Zafran” was certainly a completely different experience. Dishoom in London was already hard to beat, however following this culinary experience, I’d say “Zafran” is the place to eat.

Last but not least. It was the first time I made it on the “Tram 28”. The one tram line that is always fully packed with tourists fighting to get the last seat or standing place on it.

What can I see, Lisbon never disappoints!

Portugal Roadtrip: Algarve to Lisbon

This post will be about our 3rd part of our “covid” summer holidays. After having visited Mallorca in July, and Turkey end of July, it was about time to start our 10-day-roadtrip in Portugal.

We both had already been to the Algarve and Lisbon before, however we thought it would be the best option to travel hasslefree, as Portugal didn’t have any restrictions to enter their country.

Our main purpose of the trip, was to enjoy delicious food, enjoy the shores of the Algarve, maybe doing our best on a surfboard for several days, and making it to Lisbon where I wanted to get tattooed.

We didn’t have any big expectations, as we’ve already seen it before.

Algarve.

After landing in Lisbon, we got our rental car at “Sixth”, and opted for a Fiat 500, as we thought it would be fun cruising around in that small, but classic, italian car.

Driving down to the Algarve, was flawless. It was the first time that we drove over the “Vasco da Gama” bridge, which felt like and endless bridge, because of its unusual length of 17km (10 miles). “Vasco da Gama” wasn’t unheard to my ears, I was pretty sure that it had something to do with Goa. After looking it up, Google informed us, that there’s a whole city called “Vasco de Gama” in Goa, named after the portuguese explorer.

After driving straight ahead for 3 hours, we made it to Lagos. There are barely any bends or crossings, you just drive straight for a couple of hours until you get to the southern state of Portugal.

Lagos, wasn’t something, that we hadn’t seen before, however the location was just perfect, to do some daytrips around the coasts, and our hotel was located only 5-10 minutes walking from wonderful beaches, and the sunset point in Lagos.

After having visited, Luz, Faro, Albufeira, Lagos, I guess I’d recommend Lagos for your point of departure in the Algarve. The city center was cosy, lively enough to enjoy the evenings, and the fish restaurants were the best I experienced in Portugal.

We did our first surf session at Praia de Amado. The water was super cold, even though it was summer with 33°C outside of the water. That’s why we decided to buy our own wetsuit, which we could use along the years, if we decided to go on with surfing. The wetsuit felt like a wonder and made it really enjoyable to dive into freezing water. The beach was packed, and the waves were pretty rough for beginners… Two years following my first surf classes, I felt like a complete noob, getting on the board, felt like an impossible thing again. Bummer! However it felt good being in the salty water, and being active.

Two hours later, we were kinda exausted. But happy that we made it into the water with our own wetsuits.

We visited Sagres (the city’s name which is well known because of the popular beer brand in Portugal). There’s absolutely nothing worth visiting, except for a couple of surfshops.

My favorite beaches in the Algarve were the following ones:

  • Praia da Bordeira

  • Praia do Camilo in Lagos

  • and the cliffs of the Esteveira beach, that we visited during sunset.

The ones in Porto Covo were wonderful as well. After a couple of days, the beaches started all looking alike, as it’s always cliffs and the sea. We decided to move on northbound towards Ericeira, passing along the Comporta coast. We spent a night in Rogil and another one in Setubal.


Ericeira.

Ericeira, Peniche and Nazaré are the popular hotspots among the surfer crowds. Ericeira which is located a 40-minute drive up north from Lisbon, seemed like a good location to spend a couple of days, as we were told, that it would have that laid-back surfer vibe, and the city center, would look more beautiful than Peniche.

What can I say. Ericeira seemed cute at first sight.

Parking during our stay was a pain in the ass, as the streets along the city center were super packed with cars, and finding a free parking spot wasn’t an easy thing.

The colors and traditional houses looked even cuter than in Lisbon. There were many options for having lunch & dinner. Surfer shops were spread all over the city. That was mainly it. It was lively for sure, however it did felt more touristic than Lisbon, kind of. Heaps of young surfer crowds, enjoying the food at some hip restaurants. After the sun had set, the temperatures dropped and the streets felt less appealing as during the day.

The super friendly lady who did our check-in at the “Casa das Aguarelas”, explained us that the mornings are mostly foggy in Ericeira. If the sky doesn’t clear up by mid-day, it will remain cloudy for the rest of the day. If the sky however clears up by noon, it will remain sunny for the rest of the day. Weird but true, the lady was right.

In the Algarve, we had the best summer-ish weather, things changed after making it to Ericeira. That’s why we were a little bit disappointed, as we had to put on our jackets again.

We headed to the Foz do Lizandro beach twice, to get back on the surfboards. The water again, freezing cold, but it was the best thing we could do during foggy mornings.

One evening, we made it to Sintra, which was a disappointment, as we wanted to see the underground tower at the “Quinta da Regaleira”. Too many tourists, due to covid-restrictions. We had to wait in line for more than 40 minutes, as they let people in, drop by drop. The “Quinta” was super beautiful and surprised my expectations. I would get back any time again.

My favorite spot in Ericeira was the wine-bar “Mar das Latas”, a wonderful small but cozy bar, which gave you a view over the cove of the “Praia dos Pescadores” (Fishermen’s beach). The perfect spot to enjoy the sunset, with delicious tapas (fish, meat, vegan), and a glass of wine or two…. The soul music on the first day, was the cherry on top. All I could expect from a wonderful summerday: music, booze, sunset and my girlfriend next to me.


Lisbon.

It was supposed to become my 10th stay in the beautiful capital of Portugal. Again, we’ve seen it all, we thought so… and even after having been that many times in Lisbon, there were still undiscovered corners, that convinced us about its beauty.

The botanical garden “Estufa Fria”, is located right in the city-center. Luckily only a couple of months ago, I saw a post on Instagram, of the greens that make the Estufa a surreal place. The entrance fee is about 3,50 euro, totally worth it. We were lucky, that we were almost the only visitors for half an hour, which allowed us to take some lovely photographs. Definitely a place that I plan on visiting everytime i make it back to Lisbon.

Another instagramable spot would be the “Amelia” bar/restaurant. The location isn’t the most convenient in the city, as there’s nothing appealing in the neighborhood beside the restaurant. The 15 minutes waiting, were worth it. The bar is packed with colors, lights and … flavors. The food we ordere was very good (red beet avocado toast). This would be a charming place to surprise your friends or just to enjoy a drink in a cosy place.

As we merely spent two days in Lisbon, besides getting tattooed and spending a night out with friends, there wasn’t too much time left to discover something new. However it’s always a pleasure to be back.

Funny thing happened in Lisbon though. When we dropped our rental-car at the airport on the 3rd last day. I didn’t feel like waiting for an Über to arrive, and told my girlfriend to jump on the first taxi standing in line. The usual price to get to the “Yes Hostel” is around 12-13 euro, by Über. Once or twice I took a taxi to get myself to the airport, and as far as I could remember it wasn’t more expensive than 15 euro.

The old driver who was driving the car, seamed gentle at first sight. While having my eyes on the taxi-meter I noticed that the price went up rapidly. When we almost arrived at the hostel, in the area of the Praca do Commercio, the taxi driver, missed the street, and drove around to drop us 100 meters away from the entrance of the hostel. It was on a mainroad. As soon as he dropped us, the police showed up. One officer stopped the car, the second one joined both of us. Initially we thought they would give the driver a ticket, as he was bothering the traffic while dropping us.

The gentle policemen, told us in portuguese, that they were investigating the taxi fairs. So we told them that we had paid 35 euros (plus 2€ tip) from the airport to the city center. The cops wouldn’t believe what I just told them. We were informed that the highest price wouldn’t pass 17 euros and that’s why they were investigating to avoid rip offs with tourists. I already knew that we paid too much, compared to the previous times, however why should you argue about the price listed on a taxi meter.

The old driver, who felt ashamed, gave us back the 25 euros. The cops took him to the station and towed away his car.

Keep in mind, never pay more than 15-17 euros from the airport to the city center.











































Turkey: Istanbul & Cappadocia

When I visited Istanbul for the first time 5 years ago, I was so positively surprised about the beauty and vibe of the city, that I already knew it wouldn’t be my last trip to the most popular city of Turkey.

During these last covid-months, there weren’t many destinations left to pick, as many european countries put on restrictions to cross their borders. Leaving Europe wasn’t an option, as it was impossible to visit Asia or the US. However we looking for a more exotic destination to get the feel of being far away from home. Istanbul was just the right choice. While being Turkey, why shouldn’t we fly over to Cappadocia, to wonder the beauty of the big-balloons-sunrise ? It sounded like the perfect trip.

After I had booked our bargain hotel right in the center of the city, next to the Galata tower, I got a message through booking.com, where the Hotel informed us about their one-way aiport-pickup, with a set price of 40$. I checked the prices on google, and it seemed like a the price-range of a taxi would vary from 30-40 euros, which sounded pretty expensive, compared to our usual taxi rides in Asia or Portugal.

After our first taxi-ride, which takes easily 40 minutes to make it to the city center, we felt some kind of relief, noticing that a one-way route only cost 140-160 lira (16-18 euro). This was easily half of the suggested price by the hotel.

Our hotel right in the hear of the city was 55€ for 2 nights. BARGAIN!

Sadly, our schedule of the trip was shortened a couple of weeks before, as our initial flight from Istanbul to our country was canceled, so we had to prepone it by almost 36 hours. Instead of spending almost 4 days in Istanbul, it got cut short to 1 single whole day. As we had to a make decision, to chose between a stressful but interesting trip, or spending a week at home, we went all in. And in the end we didn’t regret it, as we had spent some wonderful days in Turkey.

Istanbul.

What a gem of a city. It offers everything I expect to get from a city: a cultural difference, ancient buildings that makes a city unique, great food, hip spots.. the right mix of old and modern.

Istanbul has got it all!

To start our morning right, we stepped out of the entrance of our bargain hotel “Royal Galata Hotel”, and walked steep uphill for 3 minutes, and sat down at a table of the cosy "Guney Restaurant". Choose a granola-bowl, turkish brekfast (the traditional dish Menemen) and enjoy the sun shining over the the beautiful Galata tower.

As we only had one whole day to witness the main spots of Istanbul, I decided to visit the 3 most popular mosques, which are shining over the city’s landscape with their beautiful architecture. Obviously these would be: the Blue Mosque (Sultan-Ahmed mosque), Hagia Sophia, and Süleymaniye Mosque.

Just before making it to Istanbul, a friend told me the story of Hagia Sophia. The building was initially a christian church when it was build in the year 532 a.c.. From the year 1453 to 1935, it became a mosque for the muslims. Following 1935 Hagia Sophia was considered as a museum. Day prior our arrival, on july 24th 2020, Hagia Sophia became a mosque again. I could imagine that this could cause severe tensions in the religious world. The squares around Hagia Sophia were guarded by hundreds of police men.

As my personal opinion, the Hagia Sophia as a mosque, didn’t feel as nice than the first time I visited it in 2015. The old floors were covered by a plain blue carpet, which gave the inside of the building a weird look. The beautiful park, on the outside square, had lost its beauty, because of all the security barriers that were built up, with political slogans on it. And of course, all the visitors had to wear a mask. So much beauty was lost.

The main court on the ouside of the Blue Mosque was closed for renovation works. Bummer! As I wanted to show my girlfriend the beauty of its architecture. At least, we managed to enjoy the view at the 3rd mosque (Süleymaniye) all over Istanbul and the court of the mosque (that you can witness in the our video).

The Old Bazar, was a must as well, as we intended to buy those traditional turkish hanging lamps and some fresh spices. We were surprised that a lamp would just cost 65lira (7 euros). Of course some shops asked double the price. On our next trip to Istanbul, we would definitely opt for a bigger suitcase, as they take quite a lot of space in your luggage.

In the later afternoon, we wanted to take one of these jawdropping shots, with a panoramic view over the city, and a bunch of seagulls flying over our head. We saw those cinematic shots on Instagram, and wanted to get one of those as well. Knowing that the whole scene is orchestrated, to attract the seagulls, we knew it would come for free.

The coffee/bar “Kubbe-I Ask” used to be the place where they would over a photogenic corner to take this kind of photos. With high hopes we made it to the rooftop of the bar, and satdown for a drink. However no photo-spot in sight. The roof-top was packed with customers. We had two mocktails, as they didn’t serve any alcoholic beverages and still enjoyed the view over the blue colored Bosporus river and the Galata Bridge. The staff of the bar, told us, that there was a building right next door, which would offer the photoshooting for 25 euro (12.5 euro each person). Considering that you pay a mocktail 2 euros, and a wonderful dinner 10 euros.. paying 25 euros for a couple of photos on a rooftop wasn’t considered cheap for turkish standards. However it was worth the price. The shop/service runs under the name “tahtistanbul” on Facebook or @taht.istanbul on Instagram. Still during covid-times, with barely any tourists in the city, we had to wait 30 minutes. While waiting you can relax in a bunch of hammoks and they offer you a turkish tea or coffee.

The two guys on the rooftop, will take your camera or phone and take a bunch of photos (around 30-40 in total) from different angles & positions. Solo and as a couple. Seeing the result, and the effort of the so-called “photographer”, it was definitely worth it.

To end our first sightseeing tour, we headed over to Balat, a hip & colorful neighbourhood in the center of Istanbul. From the mainroad, a taxi will bring you to Balat for 1-2$. The neighbourhood Balat is packed with cosy bars, tiny artistic shops, and endless coffee places. Kids are playing on the streets, and the colored houses around you, make you feel like being in a not-religious place. It’s definitely worth spending 1 or 2 hours there, just relaxing and enjoying the quietness.

We made it back to the hotel around 19h, as we managed to organise a meet-up with a friend i met years ago in Lisbon at my favorite hostel. Medhi who used to live in Algeria, happened to move to Istanbul, and it felt like a good idea, to have dinner together. He brought us to a local restaurant called “Bilice Kebap”. They served huge trays with several mezzes on tiny plates, skewers, some traditional flatbreads. The dinner was so delicious that we had to get up on our very last night.

What a day. So many sights in one single day.

What would a trip to Istanbul be, without savouring some Baklava at "Hafiz Mustafa". I was never a fan of turkish delights, as they were mostly too sweat for my taste. After having had the pistachio Baklavas at the famous “Hafiz Mustafa” bakery, it definitely changed my mind about the threats. So good!

 

Cappadocia.

Cappadocia, is one of those regions, that everybody knows from Instagram photos. So far I know two destinations which are well known for their amazingly beautiful sunrise/sets, as the skies are filled with endless hot balloons: the first one i got to know was Bagan (Myanmar) and the second one would be Cappadocia (Turkey). Look it up on Google, and you will be amazed how lovely those balloon rides are (as I don’t wanna use, photos or videos that are not mine, on this blog).

Cappadocia looks like straight out of a fairey tale: big rocks surrounding the villages of Cappadoccia, rocks in any colors or shapes. Some hotels offer cave rooms, which are carved in the plain walls of these rocks. It’s mesmerizing. The good part about it, they’re pretty cheap as well! Expect to pay 120-150 euro for 3 nights (double room) in a magnificent hotel! BARGAIN!

To make it to Cappadocia, you have to fly into Kayseri Airport, which is a one hour flight from Istanbul (we paid our flight 30euros). After jumping into our shady rental-car, which was already hitting the 200.000 km mark, we drove almost an hour to reach Göreme.

You can choose one of the 3 cities, where you wanna stay to watch the balloons rising up to the sky:

  • Göreme, the more laid back village

  • Ürgüp, the not so laid back village

  • Uchisar, the fortress-shaped village.

How to know which one of these 3 above to pick?

We informed ourselves online, and decided to book our nights at the “HENNA HOTEL” in Göreme. Göreme sounded like a cool easygoing village, where you can walk around in flip-flops and where it instantly feels like being at home. On the first day, while checking-in, we got a super friendly welcome by the manager, who showed us the amities of the resort, before leading us to our beautiful room.

Actually, we had a fancy hotel room, in a laid back village. Hah! What we liked about the city center, everything is in walking distance. Going up to the main sunset point in Göreme, will take 10 minutes on foot. All the souvenir shops (which sell cute pottery and turkish glass-lanterns), the restaurants, the bars, are reachable within 5 minutes. The only downside of Göreme: it’s really small! You can visit the whole city center in an hour. BUT… you will love that, as the shopkeepers will recognize you on the following day, and greeting you with a big smile on their face.

As we just managed to get over the first wave of covid-infections these last months, the seasonal business was very low while we were visiting. The main attraction of Cappadocia, the hot balloons, weren’t flying due to Covid restrictions. Many people weren’t traveling, with the result, that Göreme looked quite empty. So we decided to tip almost every shopowner to support them financially. Almost everytime we tipped, the turks gave us something in return, a present, another free icecream cone, they invited us for a free tee or coffee… unbelievable how welcoming the turkish citizen are. This was the first time ever, that I witnessed this kind of grattitude and friendliness outside of Thailand or Japan.

From Göreme, you can easily visit, Ügrüp or Uchisar by car. It will take you less than 10 minutes driving. Uchisar is the closest city to Göreme, you can also visit it on foot, through “Piggeon Valley”.

Uchisar looks magnificent from afar, as you can clearly notice the conic shape of the city, which gives it the look of a fortress. The closer you get to Uchisar, the more it will look like one of the neighbouring old cities.

We also visited Ügrüp for a couple of hours. It offered kind of the same sights than Göreme or Uchisar. There were a lot more visitors in the city, and it just felt like another busy turkish city, that’s why we would recommend Göreme among those 3. Göreme is quiet, but still lively enough at night to have a good time with your friends and family. Despite the covid-restrictions, one or two bars were packed every night, while we were walking by. If we ever turn back to Cappadocia (as we haven’t watched the balloon-rise yet), we would definitely stay in Göreme.

Is there anything else to do in Cappadocia?

Well, there’s not that much to do, except hiking. As we didn’t have many options, besides a quad-ride, or horse-ride through the stoney valleys, we decided to walk from Göreme to Uchisar, through the Valley of Love.

Why Valley of Love? Because a bunch of stones, have a the shape of a penis, that’s why… period. We were told, that the name was made up by tourists.

We walked along the hot burning streets, almost an hour til we found to walkable path that leaded to the “Lover’s Viewpoint” (in Love Valley). As it was super hot outside, we already emptied our bottles. Close to the massive phallic rocks, there was a very vintage-looking tavern, where we could order water, juices or softdrinks. The prices were a little bit more expensive as usual, however we couldn’t care less, as we got super thirsty. The lovely gentleman at the bar, told us, to follow the dried riverbed, uphill towards Uchisar. It would be reachable within 40 minutes.

Old sport! We made it to the fortress in almost 2 hours. And it really felt like a bad joke. I got a heavy sunburn, because I was wearing a tanktop without sunscreen. Following the dried river bed, lead us through tunnels, spikey hedges that cut our skin, slippery rocky paths, we had to climb up big rocks without any spots to hold on. And after walking for almost 90 minutes, it still felt like being stuck in a desert. At some point it wasn’t funny at all. We were so happy when we saw a hidden path that lead us to the top of a hill, where we found out that we almost made it to Uchisar.

We ran to the first open restaurant to buy 2 bottles of water. The turkish people looked at us, like if we had jumped out of their tv-screen. It seemed like they’d never seen a dehydrated dude with a sunburn.

We still managed to walked down to Göreme, back home, through the “Piggeon Valley”, which was a much nicer path. Not as spectacular as the phallic rocks, however much more enjoyable.

Just before sunset, we drove up to the “Göreme Tarihi Milli Park”, to witness a beautiful sunset, above white sandstone mountains, which were supposed to reflect in red color, once the sun would set. This wasn’t the case though, when we were visiting. However the whole sunset-point felt like a coachella-themed party among turkish pepople. They offered coffee from a fancy food-truck. There was music, lots of people, a couple of instagramable swings. It felt like Covid was gone for an hour.

We lost a lot of time finding the spot at “Red Valley”, because Google-Maps didn’t bring up the right location. A car with 3 turkish guys was following us to find the same spot. We decided to park our car further away to avoid getting stuck in the sand dunes. As we reached the spot that was shown by google-maps, we and the 3 turkish gentlemen, found out, that it was the wrong location. We jumped in their car, drove around and asked people how to get to our destination. Pretty funny situation with a bunch of very friendly people, who couldn’t speak any english.

To find the right spot on google maps enter “Göreme Tarihi Milli Park” or “Kizilvadi” (restaurant/bar).

We aren’t fans of quad rides, however if we would have stayed another day, we might had done the tour, as the landscapes are truely beautiful and really not that easy to reach by car (except for a 4wheeldrive).

You can visit museums, pottery workshops… to kill the time. However if you only spend 2 whole days in Cappadocia, i’d enjoy the nature, the sunrises, and the food. And spend some relaxing moments at those beautiful hotels.

We were so happy having visited Turkey. It was a complete positive experience, with hundreds of super welcoming people. The food in Istanbul was a blast! The weather was perfect. We would turn back anytime soon.

3 Nights in Mallorca // Balearic Islands

Palma de Mallorca, was one of the few places, that I always tried to avoid, because mainly since growing up, it became well know for its invading german & british tourists, taking over the beaches and streets of “El Arenal” on Mallorca, for binge drinking nights. Not that I dislike drinking, however the whole package of very bad music, sweaty testosterone mollecules and loud german chants, just doesn’t fulfill my interests.

During these last few months of time spent at home, partially closed country borders, we were looking for a destination, that we could visit, with one of the few airlines available. We split up our summer holidays on 3 different locations. As our first trip, since march 2020, we opted for Mallorca, because we just wanted to get away for 4 nights, into the sun, with good food & wine, no big expecations, just “away from Luxembourg”. As Spain, looked pretty safe among the corona-virus invaded countries, we decided fo fly over to Spain.

It quickly turned out, that we had a completely wrong approach towards the big balearic island. Getting out of the airport, jumping on the first taxi, it only took around 10 minutes to make it to the city center. Of course, our taxi driver added a fixed fare of 9,80 euro, instead of the usual 4,40 eur. Something a visitor wouldn’t know. The short ride cost us around 28 euro, instead of the usual 20 euro, which we found out on the next day.

This was something, that I really appreciated. You don’t have to spend much time in a taxi, or in a car, to reach your spots in Mallorca. Everything felt very close. On the 2nd day, we picked up our rental car, which by chance, turned out to be a very convenient and cosy MINI, in red color. Getting from the aiport, to Valldemossa, took us only 15-20 minutes driving. Later on, driving on towards Port de Soller, took us another 20-25 minutes. Nothing seemed really far, from the main city of Palma. You just don’t loose much time, driving around.

Palma.

The main city of the mallorcan Island, is pretty alright. We had absolutely no expectations while booking our first night in the city center. It turned out to be ok. The center offers a bunch of lovely shops, selling locals crafts, the tradional & trendy summer clothes, all kinds of food and booze. Just the usual nice things you expect to find in a touristic place, where you can spend on your money on.

Reading online, that Santa Catalina, was the place to go out, in Palma. We headed towards S-C on foot, which only took about 10 minutes. Despite the virus spread, and the early closing hours of most places during this year’s summer season, Santa Catalaina seemed still enough lively to have a good time. The bar “Cuba” offered a great roof-top bar, however too many people were waiting in line to make it on top of the building. There was a right mix of cocktail bars and local pubs.

The cathedral “Santa Maria” was the most eyecatching building in the city. Definitely beautiful as you walk by the edges of the city center.

Maybe it was because of the virus disease, that the whole vibe in the city wasn’t that attractive. Palma is definitely an enjoyable place, however nothing more nothing less.

Port de Soller .

After picking up our rental car, we drove straight to Port de Soller, where we spent 2 nights. We had a stop at Valldemossa and Deià, two little towns, offering the traditional historical buildings, a couple of viewpoints, and of course the delicious pastries with its coffee & cafe crema.

As we’ve seen those kind of town already in Spain, Portugal and Italy, nothing seemed very new to us.

Making it to Port de Soller, we got a smile on our face, as the coastal bay, with its surrounding hills & white houses, looked convincingly beautiful. We had booked two nights at the hotel “EDEN” which was just right in the front of the port. The whole area seemed very cozy and quiet. There was a tram on the alley along the shore, that was passing by every hour, to bring people form Port de Soller, to the oldtown of Soller. Everything in Port de Soller, felt like “being on vacation”.

Allong the shore, there were bunches of fancier lounges, the traditional seafood restaurants, ice bars, and the beach shops where you could also rent a board for stand up paddling. The view in the evening was very satisfying. It just felt like being in one of those fancy spots in the south of France.

Caló des Moro.

On our 3rd day, we left Port de Soller in the early morning, and headed over to the east-coast of Mallorca. We had read about Calo des Moro, and couldn’t wait anymore to witness the beauty of the blue-greenish colored water of the popular cove. We were lucky that we arrived around 09:30 in the morning, as the place wasn’t that much crowded. Later when we were leaving the cove, lots of tourists were visiting the place with inflatable toys & boats, and any kind of rubbish you should’t bring to a beautiful place like this one.

As you can see on the photos below, it’s a must-see in Mallorca. The way to make it to the water, is a little bit adventurous, and not really convenient for the older generation, nor kids, as you have to climb down a bunch of rocks to make it o the water.

We visited three different coves in total, and the Calo des Moro was by far the most beautiful of all 3. The second nicest one was the “Port De Sa Calobra”. If you’re heading to the “Sa Calobra” serpentine roads, the way up will lead to the a road-bar on the highest point of the mountain. The opposite side, which obviously leads down to a lovely cove which goes by the mentioned name “Port de Sa Calobra”. It’s a mix of port, bathing place, stoney beach, surrounded by two restaurants. It’s definitely worth to visit. The location and its nearby hills & woods reminded naturewise of California.

Cap de Formentor.

Another must-see would be the Cap de Formentor on the most northern spot on the west-coast of Mallorca. After having seen the Capo da Rocca in Portugal, it wasn’t as impressive, as if it would have been for a first-timer. Although the lighthouse here in Mallorca was nicer than the one in Portugal.

We got the best views with our drone shots. However you’ll witness a beautiful scenery of rocks, the sea, and the neverending distance far into the ocean. The scenic drive to the point is pretty convincing, and you get the feel of a national park drive. Even though having seen many light houses, the drive to Cap de Formentor, in my opinion is definitely worth the time & drive to the northern spot.

Why Mallorca?

After having visited many cities in Spain, Portugal and Italy, why would I recommend Mallorca to anyone? Just getting from the airport to the next city is very convenient. It takes you maximum 20-30 minutes driving. The roads actually weren’t that busy when we were visiting. Everything was hassle-free without any traffics jams or packed roads.

  • getting around with the german & english language, might be easier than in Italy.

  • the flight for us lasted only 90 minutes, compared to 3 hours for Portugal.

  • the spanish food, definitely beats the portguese cuisine (even though i love both).

Would Mallorca become one of my favorite destinations ever? I guess not, it lacks that kind of soul, that makes you fall in love with a special place. However Mallorca definitely has its own kind of beauty, that mediterranean island vibe. It really feels like driving around an island, as the scenery can change pretty quickly, among thousands of narrow roads.

I’m so glad that we gave Mallorca a chance, as we initially didn’t have such a positive image of the island. The spanish island has much more to offer than just the party destination at “El Arenal”.

We would definitely get back to Mallorca anytime soon, especially with kids or other couples. As we had the impression, that most restaurants or lounges were booked by pairs or groups.

There’s a fancy gin-brand that comes from Mallorca. The name of the gin is “Cabraboc”, a simple design of a clear bottle with a label depicting the head of a buck (goat). Making it to Mallorca, I finally understood why they used a buck head on their local gin brand. Driving around the island, you will notice endless goats on the side of the road, and obviously in the middle of the road. Definitely a funny thing to see! Drive carefully.

Italian Roadtrip : Cinque Terre, Toscana, le Marche

Looking back on my past 6 years of traveling, most of my destinations were pretty exotic spots, where there was much to discover, to dive into and soak up endless experiences. My first summer trip of 2019 turned out to be Italy, the country where I spent all my childhood summer holidays from back then when I was 5 til I turned 18. The last time I saw my relatives in Italy was in 2007, exactly twelve years ago.

My first thoughts about an italian roadtrip was like “oh yeah, it’s just Italy”. Don’t get me wrong Italy has a lot to offer for all the art & history aficionados. Obviously their culinary “chef-d’ouevres” or just the simpler variation of nonna’s kitchen, belongs to the best and favorites cuisines in the whole world.

However for my own personal interests and photowise I’m tending more on the american or asian continent.

Surprisingly we had a super lovely holiday as you can witness on my travel video about Italy. I discovered the “aperitivos” with endless free food, I had the chance to discover some beautiful spots in Tuscany, enjoyed endless amounts of delicious dishes and loved spending quality time with my girlfriend and our families.

Cinque Terre (Liguria).

We started our roadtrip around 04:00 in the morning, as we were late again, as usual. But it turned out to be a good time to leave the contry on a monday morning, as we barely didn’t had any heavy traffic on the road.

It took us 11 hours to reach our first destination “Riomaggiore” which is one of the first “terra” of the Cinque Terre (trans. Five Lands). We had booked an appartement very close to the sea, so we could enjoy the cliffs and sound of the waves in the morning. There are five main spots which form Cinque Terre: Riomaggiore, Manarola, Corniglia, Vernazza, Monterosso.

It’s hard to choose one of the “terre” as your hotel spot, if you haven’t been there before. I tried to get an idea online, but it left me clueless. We opted for Riomaggiore, as we loved the sight of the rising houses from the shore towards the mountain hills.

Actually it only takes 2 minutes by train to get from Riomaggiore to Manarola. The train leaves the station, passes a tunnel which connects both lands, and two minutes later you’re in Manarola. The longest distance between two “terre” would be around 8 minutes.

This means that it’s actually not that important where you sleep, as you can easily travel around and the trains move around til midnight.

Even though the connecting train rides don’t last long, it’s still pretty exausting to do all the cinque terre in one day. Definitely it’s easily doable, but there a lot of steps to climb and many steep hills to walk.

As we only spent 2 nights in Cinque Terre, we decided to have a relaxed arrival after almost 12 hours of driving, and do the other 4 terres left for the second day. There are two trails that will lead you to the different spots. Sadly because of construction works, the trails were closed for us. On the first day, the ferry terminals were closed as well due to the harsh waves. So we had to rely on the local train line.

Let me sumarize my favorite spots at the terre:

  • Riomaggiore was definitely pretty because of the rising colorful houses from the shore towards the upper hills, where you enter “Cinque Terre”. However the bars & restaurants were pretty boring.

  • Manarola was slightly different, but also pretty similiar to Riomaggiore. In Manarola it was easier to get into the water, or watch the locals diving from the cliffs. The best spot in our opinion was the resto-bar “Nessun Dorma” on top of the cliff. It offered wonderful sunset views and you could enjoy an Aperol-Spritz for 9 Euro followed by a free “plancha” with bread, olives, salame and prosciuto. They call it “Aperitivo” where you get free finger food between 6 and 8 pm while ordering a cocktail or a glass of wine.

  • Vernazza had the coolest bars close to the ocean. The several bakeries nearby offered great & cheap food as well. From the main alley you can slip through a rock-hole, walk through a cave that leads you to the sea.

  • Corniglia was the steepest terra and definitely made me sweat walking from the trainstation up to the top. It seemed less lively than the other 4 spots.

  • Monterosso was the beachy area of the 5 terre, also called Monterosso al Mare. That’s where you’d find those colorful ombrelones that protects you from the sun at the beach. There was a different vibe and it looked more lively as people were jumping into the water, went swimming and kids were laughing out loud while the waves crashed into their faces.

The food and drinks can be pretty affordable if you take the time to find cheaper bars. Hotel or hostel wise Cinque Terre can get quite costly.


Toscana: Siena & San Gimignano.

After our stay at the terre, we moved on to Tuscany. We drove almost three hours until we reached Siena, where we booked a hotel for 2 nights as well. We stayed at the “HOTEL SANTA CATERINA” which was the most charming accomodation I would have ever expected. It was also pretty affordable considering the location and its wonderful backyard that offered a view of the Tuscany countryside.

siena.jpg

I loved the beauty of the hills and greens in Tuscany. Personaly Siena didn’t seem that much of an attractive city to me, as I’ve already been to a lot of medieval italian cities, and they kinda all look alike. At night most of the tourists had dinner at the Piazza del Campo. The whole piazza was packed up with foreigners. The bars in the little side alleys stayed empty. It definitely seemed very touristic. Even on a weekend night there wasn’t much going on. Most of the restaurants shut their doors at 23:00 (11pm), where on the other hand cities in Portugal or Spain stay up til very late during the main summer season. I missed the music coming out of the bars, people dancing in the streets, or just random people running by.

The road from Siena to its neighbour city San Gimignano was very scenic and it offered a couple of nice vista points. Even in town, especially on the village edges you could enjoy lunch with a splendid view towards the greenish hills of Tuscany. San Gimignano however was a tourist magnet. You wouldn’t spot a local among the crowds that were walking through the main alleys. The local shopkeepers were very welcoming and rather nice compared to the business people in Liguria. Watching these crowds of german, dutch and british tourists walking by just wouldn’t put me at ease in San Gimignano.



 

Le marche.

From Tuscany we moved on towards the Marche reggion. We spent a couple of days at the family’s house in Poggetto which was located in the countryside, a tiny village with less than a hundred citizen. There wasn’t even a shop in the village, nor a bar.

However everything was very genuine, as we were the only foreigner in Poggetto I guess. My girlfriend’s grandma spoiled us with her breakfast and cooking. Getting to a supermarket we had to drive to the next village. The gelaterias were also located and spread throughout the different villages. It didn’t bother me, as I was glad that all this was pretty authentic.

During our stay we went to the beaches in Ricchione and Senigallia, visited a shopping mall in Rimini and had a wonderful dinner with ocean view at “Ristorantino Prima Secca” in Fano.

The Marche region in my opinion is very underrated, as it looks very similiar to Tuscany. Travelers however tend to visit the tuscan area of Italy, which is more expensive. Marche offers you hills, nature and mountains. The beach cities like Rimini, Pesaro, Riccione are only 30-60 minutes away.

Flying a drone at Cinque Terre was prohibited (psht! don’t tell anyone). At the marche countryside it didn’t bother anyone that I sent up my drone to take some impressive footage.

I loved the village fests, that were theme-based for example: the tagliatelle fest “Sagra delle tagliatelle”. The following week they hosted a truffle fest or a meat-based fest. Lovely backyard parties in a public place where people would enjoy traditional music with local food and wine all night. Endless amounts of italian specialties are without a doubt a big part of an italian vaccation. We just couldn’t stop eating!

If I had to pick my favorite spot of the three mentioned above, it would be Poggetto, with its laid-back village vibe.

We spent ten days in Italy, and I’m glad that I gained back my interests for the italian culture. I’d still visit Portugal in a heartbeat over Italy, however I can’t argue that Italy has a lot to offer as well.





Norway : Lofoten Islands & the arctic circle

The year 2019 started with an unusual trip. My girlfriend and I decided to visit the northern part of Norway, the Lofoten islands and the nordic city Tromso. I’d consider it an unusual destination as I don’t like spending my precious holidays in winter-cold countries or cities.

As we already went through the winter curse in our country, which consisted of freezing nights and rainy days, we headed north-bound towards the arctic circle. I expected to take the best out of my recently bought Mavic Air drone and was looking forward to pet some reindeers. This all sounded too fancy, if it wouldn’t have been for the rain.

 

We flew out from Brussels and had a 2-night stop in Bergen, the main city in the south-west of Norway. All I knew about Bergen, were the beautiful colored houses which I knew from google and the mountains surrounding the city center. It all seemed very “nordic” to me, because of the maritime vibe with all the ships, anchors and fishermen, therefor I was looking forward to finally discover Bergen. It turned out that city center wasn’t that attractive at all, and it ended up as a big disappointment. On tripadvisor we tried to find several tourist spots, which would allow us to kill the time. Sadly we couldn’t find any online.

All you can do is get some fishy-food at the local fish market, grab a coffee or two, get on top of the mount “Fløyen” with its fancy funicalar. All this can be done in 4 hours. Besides that I really can’t give you any further tips. Bergen didn’t turn out as I expected it to be. At night, we didn’t find any awesome bars which would allow us to get to know some local folks, it all seemed very dead. I guess paying 10 euros/dollar for one beer or a shot of rum doesn’t sound very inviting. Sadly that’s the average price you gotta pay for booze in Norway.

We were happy to move on towards the Lofoten in the early morning of our 3rd day in Norway.
You can easily reach the city center of Begen from the airport by the local lightrail (one-way ticket costs about 3,5 euro/dollar, or the express busline “flybussen”, which takes about 25 min(the one-way ticket is about 10 euro/us$).

 

Lofoten Islands: Reine, Sakrisoy, Henningsvær.

We landed in Leknes, where one of the 3 airports of the Lofoten is located. It was the smallest airport that I’ve ever landed at. After jumping out of the airplane, we walked through a door, and immediately reached the luggage claim belt within a couple of meters. Right next to the luggage claim where two single booths of the rental car companies. After spending exactly 4 minutes at the desk, we got a descent upgrade for our car: a hybrid VW Golf, with automatic transmission, and spiked wheels.

Prior our trip we booked a lovely wooden cabin in Sakrisøy, also known as “Rorbu” houses. Rorbuer are traditional fisher houses made out of wood and usually painted in red or yellow. It was one of the cheapest “chalets” we could find on booking.com, but it turned out to be exactly what were looking for. The check-in was flawless. The main entrance of the cabin was facing a big snow-covered mountain, right next to the water. A very basic kitchen station allowed us to prepare our dinners and breakfasts. Nearby the Sakrisoy houses was a “Coop” supermarket, and with 50 euro/us$, we could prepare our food for the upcoming 3 days. Expect to pay at least 60 euro/us$ while having dinner at a restaurant. Norway ain’t cheap!

It was the first time I ever stayed in a wooden cabin. I loved brewing my fresh coffee every morning with my portable “Kalita Filter”. The living area and the wooden beds on the upper level of the house were very cosy. The wooden cabin was definitely an important part of our Lofoten experience, as we weren’t spoiled with the best weater. We spent 5 days / 4 nights on the Island. During our stay we only had two days of sunshine. The weather was changing constantly, it was mostly snowstorms, rain and fog. As it was my first trip where I would use my DJI MAVIC AIR drone, the weather didn’t allow us to fly it up, as the winds were way too strong.

It’s really hard to kill the time on the Lofoten during bad weather, as there’s isn’t much to do. Because of the icy roads it takes quite a while to visit other cities. Driving from Reine to Svolvaer would easily take 3 hours. The center of Leknes hasn’t much too offer, except for a couple of coffee houses and an unattractive shopping mall.

There’s one main road that leads across the Island, the E10. There aren’t barely any shortcuts, you won’t get lost on the Lofoten without a GPS, but you will use the same road over and over again to drive around.

During our 4 days, we visited Reine, Leknes, Henningvaer and Svolvaer and we made it to the Unstad arctic surf beach. There are plenty of tiny villages that you will pass by within a couple of minutes. Different fishermen restaurants are spread out all over the Island. Besides having cake & coffee, taking lots and lots and lots of photographs, there’s not much to do in the Lofoten.

The views are breathtaking! The landscape and mountains scenery is very unique, and you won’t be disappointed. Sadly we got also unlucky with the northern lights. We were using the iphone apps “Aurora Alerts” and “Aurora” to get informed about the optimal conditions of the northern lights. Every night around 22:00h (10pm) the green lights were right above our roof. Unluckily because of the clouded sky, we weren’t able to see them. One night we took our car and started driving around for an hour or two. No luck! Even later in Tromso, one of the best locations in Norway to witness the northern beauties in the sky, we were unlucky again.

 

TROMSO.

Tromso was the last destination on our norway trip. Initially we had planned to make it the most popular city in northern norway to visit e reindeer farm. You can several tours or reindeer sleeding, husky sledding, feeding the reindeers followed by a traditional sami dinner. All of that could have been, if it wasn’t for the rain & fog.

After we landed in the late evening, the first glimpse at the city center was quite suprising. It looked like the center of fairy tale village, lots of inviting shops, packed restaurants and a handful of bars. On the next day we woke up with frustrations, the sky was gray, it was raining, and you could hear the wind through the room-window. We decided to walk across the main Tromso bridge and make it to the “Arctic Cathedral”. The beautiful A-shaped Cathedral was built in 1965, and to me it looked more like an Art-Center or Museum than a church. The shape of the building is actually very unusual for a religious building and it definitely looks like a recent construction. Never thought that the cathedral was over 50 years old.

Obviously with all the bad luck on our side, the church was closed. There were way too many people outside to get a descent photograph. The winds were too strong to fly up the drone. The fog was so dense that we could barely see the other side of the bridge. Bummer!

There wasn’t much to do in Tromso as well. We jumped from shop to the other, and tried too many coffees and cakes in the surrounding coffee-bars. Across our hotel was a lovely vinyl shop called “Backbeat Kaffe og Vinyl”. As the name of shop already reveals… you’ll find an interesting collection of vinyl (rock, indie, metal, soul, local bands) and can buy a fine cup of coffee, while browsing for new music. While in Norway, I had to buy the last album of “Kvelertak”, a gem of nordic rock music!

Click on the button below, to see the whole gallery of my Lofoten shots. Thanks for looking.




Lisbon

Despite the fact, that I grew up in Luxembourg around a numerous amount of portuguese people, while hearing their language on a daily basis and getting partly in touch with their culture, it still took me 34 years to discover the beauty of Portugal's capital Lisbon.

For too many years, relatives and friends, were talking about traveling to Barcelona, the catalonian capital. Rarely my friends used "Lisbon" to pinpoint their next destination. So after my recent trip to Portugal, all I can tell is that "Lisbon is going to be the next Barcelona".

Talking about a hip city? Lisbon is hip! Partying with a mediterranean flair? You get it in Lisbon. Delicious mediterranean cuisine and its matching wines? Lisbon, check! Traveling on budget? You won't find cheaper than Portugal.

Maybe I was just lucky, for having met amazing fellow travelers in Lisbon. The weather definitely was on my side, during my 5 days in the capital of Portugal. I had the best stay, i could have ever expected, at the "YES HOSTEL" very nearby the Praca do Comercio.

I don't really know what made my journey in Lisbon so special, it just must have been the whole package.

Getting out of the hostel, and walking two blocks south, I met up with my best friend at the Praca do Comercio. It's a large public place, with an old historic arch leading to the main shopping street of the Baixa district. But passing the Praca do Comercio will lead you to the shore, where you can have a summerish cocktail, and enjoy the stroll towards the docks {docas}, or the famous "Ponte 25 de Abril" bridge. Almost any tiny alley that will lead you north to Bairro Alto, is packed with unique gems: bars, bakeries, tiny traditional restaurants, clubs. Just explore the whole area, and learn how to enjoy the diversity of the colorful capital.

On my first days, I visited the Alfama district twice. Just after passing the busy main shopping street of Baixa, the first alleys will get very steep after a couple of hundred meters. The different paths will lead you to the top of the "Sao Jorge" castle. Sadly the entrance fee to the castle isn't cheap, so don't plan on visiting it twice. I would recommend it, for taking scenic photos of the city. If you've visited a castle before, this one won't be a lot different. But you get a bunch of impressive overlooks.

The prettiest part of Alfama for me, were the different street art spots or urban art installations. Whole Alfama is packed with uban art. While looking at the colorful murals, you will hear the different trams passing by. The old tram lines definitely bring a unique charm to the capital. In my opinion it's an important part of the city's landmark, like the cabs of London. Expect at least half a day to explore the prettiest corners of Alfama. Have one or two port wines on one of the few scenic terraces or patios, have a mediterranean lunch, and listen to some Fado. You will love that district of Lisbon.

From the city center of Lisbon, you can easily catch a short train ride, and visit Belem or Cascais, two beautiful gems which are definitely worth a visit. Sadly I jumped on an express train, which didn't stop at Belem, and I was just too exhausted to switch the train for a 3rd time. 

The same train line, takes approximately 15 minutes to Belem, and 45 minutes to Cascais. The one-way ticket to Cascais only costs 2.20 Euro (3 us$). However if you plan on visiting around mid-day expect long waiting queues in summer. A lot of tourists and locals plan on visiting the beaches around Lisbon. I waited at least 40 minutes to get a ticket, since the metro-card won't work for the train lines. 

After having jumped off the train in Cascais, I felt like i made it to the "Santa Barbara" of Portugal. The streets of Cascais looked fancy, lots of beautiful people on the beaches, infinite lines of white buildings and hundreds of shops. How can you not like Cascais? It surely attracts too many tourists in summer, but the views, the sun, the beaches are all worth it. A 30-40 minutes walk from the train station will lead you uphill to the "boca do inferno", an impressive shore of seaside cliffs, a total different nature-spectacle compared to the fancy beaches downtown. 

I can't tell anything about Belem, but all the locals told me to check out the Belem tower, and enjoy the famous "pasteis de belem", a culinary highlight.

So much different parts of the city to check out during hot summer days. But what about nightlife? Except the nightlife of "Bairro Alto" I haven't seen much of the busy spots, which wasn't bad at all actually. I had an amazing time at the "YES HOSTEL". Every evening I could enjoy wine, port wine or delicious sangria for 1 Euro a cup... yep, you got it right, 1 Euro only! Around dinner time, 8pm or 9pm all the guests of the hostel came downstairs to the bar, to start the evening. Just standing at the counter and ordering a drink, made you bump into travelers and start a conversation right away. I met a lot of lovely travelers from Sweden, Canada and Germany. After having met the first time on my first night in Lisbon, we met up every other evening for a couple of drinks, and went out to different parts of the city. Some were quiet, some were busy. 

The Bairro Alto block, was definitely very very busy on the weekend, too many bars and too many people. Actually it was a good place to go out, but as a tourist it was hard to tell which bar to choose. The drinks weren't the best ones, but cheap. So in Bairro Alto is was quantity over quality, the perfect spot to get wasted. I would say it's the place where people go "hunting", you could smell the flirting on every corner.

I did like the "House of Gin" [or the "vintage gourmet" which is the name of restaurant]. Nuno, the barman, had an impressive knowledge about gin, and easily owns over 150 different gins from all over the world. I had the chance to try a couple of gins, which I couldn't find nearby the place where i live: Brooklyn Gin (USA), Nao Gin (P), Adamus Gin (P). Of course the drinks weren't cheap, expect to pay 10-13 euro for a drink. I guess those are the prices you'll have to pay all over Europe for a fancy gin & tonic.

Sadly I got my mobile phone stolen on my following trip to Barcelona, and didn't manage to back-up my photos from Portugal. I was glad I put some shots on Instagram and Facebook, which I could save at a later time, to add on this blog-post.

The whole city of Lisbon is packed with architectural pearls and colorful murals. It takes you more than 5 days to discover the beauties of the capital. That's why I've decided to do a road trip across Portugal in 2017. This trip amazed me with only positive impressions, obrigado Lisboa!

Useful informations

  • You can get a cheap bus ride right outside of the airport. Check the different bus stops (with numbers on it), and look which one leads to your destination. I paid 3.50 Euro for a ticket, and the ride from the airport to the Praca Do Comercio took about 40 minutes. A taxi ride could cost you between 25 and 30 euro, and doesn't need to be faster during rush hour.
  • After my couple of days in Lisbon, I took a train ride to Porto. The train took almost 3 hours to reach Porto. The one day ticket costs 30 Euros. During the very busy summer season, I still managed to get a train ticket on the day I left Lisbon. Trains to Porto leave every 30 to 60 minutes.
     
  • I can't tell you any negative parts of my trip, or which tourist traps you should avoid. I felt safe all the time, at any hour of the day. Even the most touristic places, offer you fair prices for food and drinks. Expect to pay 6-10 Euro for lunch or dinner, and 1-2 Euro for the common drinks like soft drinks, wines or beers.
     
  • Most people do speak english, french or german, even the older people. It wasn't hard to get around. Even though we met some younger folks who weren't fluent in english, somehow we managed to communicate, and it was a lot of fun, discovering the different cultural sides of the city. A lot of tourists as well, but it was so easy to make new friends in Lisbon. I will definitely add a small review of the "YES" hostel, which gave me the warmest welcome in Portugal. Sadly like previously mentioned, I got my phone stolen in Barcelona, and I forgot to back up my photos from my Iphone. I wish I could have fed you with a lot more of beautiful shots of Lisbon.

Praha {1}.

Prague, the capital of Czech Republic, has been on my check list for quite a while. It should have become the 4th city, i'd visit in eastern europe. 

Expectations were high, because I have had some truely amazing experiences in Moscow, Budapest, and Krakow. Sadly Prague didn't blow me away as the previous mentioned cities. I guess travel-blogging should allow posts, that wouldn't compliment the travel experience too much. Sadly Prague was one of the cities, I didn't or couldn't enjoy that much. But why?

First of all, the weather wasn't the best. If you travel by plane, to reach your destination, and the weather doesn't allow you take decent photos, or let you enjoy the sights in and around the city, the only fun you could get would be with indoor activities, like restaurants & bars.

On our first day, the weather wasn't on our side. We stayed in Praha 1, so it was obvious that we would visit the Old Town of Prague. Without any doubt the Old Town is beautiful. But after having experienced Budapest and Krakow, it just seemed like another "old town" to me. Nothing that impressed me much.

The scenery and view all over the city, reminded me a lot of Budapest, but with a bigger amount of tourists around me, fighting for the best spot to take a snapshot of Prague.

It takes you about 1 day to check out the Old Town. The highlight in my eyes was the walk over the world famous Charles Bridge. I was told that it would be even prettier at night, with the street lamps turned on, and the cast shadows on the old paved road.

At the main square I really enjoyed the "Church of Our Lady before Týn", and its pretty black towers. I didn't get the tourist's joy for the astronomical clock though. 

During our stay, there were easter markets all over the cities. The good thing was that we could get "Trdelník", a traditional czech cake, around every corner. The Trdelnik kinda was the highlight of my Prague trip. So delicious!

What I really missed in Prague, were the fancy or trendy pubs, coffee bars, restaurants, which I really enjoyed in Budapest or Krakow. The bars or restaurants in the Praha 1 area, looked very traditional and dull. Except the few absinthe bars! We did really enjoyed those. 

No interesting shopping avenue. No delightful restaurants. Too many irish pubs. Too many fierce bouncers.

Another downside was, that nothing was really cheap in Prague. The prices were alike to those in central Europe. Expect to pay triple the price, that you would get in the capital of Hungary or Poland. 

I only heard good echoes about Prague. Prague has made a name among the top travel cities in Europe. So in my opinion, the casual traveler, would go for Prague. If you've never visited eastern europe before, you will love Prague. If you haven't traveled much, you will love Prague as well ! In my case, I would send you straight to Budapest, and guarantee you a better time!

During the evening hours the center of Prague was packed with guys, mostly africans or local czechs, asking you for a strip show, pushing you towards the bars they were working for. Too many invitations for strip clubs. At some point we really had to tell them to "fxxx off". This was another downside, traveling as a group of 5 guys. 

We had good times in a 50s diner restaurant, called James Dean. The stairs to the basement of the restaurant, lead to a club, which was really packed after midnight ! We had our best times in that basement. Good music, good people, and fair prices on the drinks.

I wish I had read some books of the author Franz Kafka, before visiting Prague. You will find lots of "Kafka" in the city; statues, museums, mugs & books with Kafka's face on it. A Kafka Cafe. Well, a lot of Kafka!

After getting back home, I ordered my first novel of Franz Kafka. :) 

KØBENHAVN.

Copenhagen was my first experience in one of the scandinavian countries, and i guess it was the right city to visit first. Copenhagen isn't too big, it's the perfect city-size for a weekend trip. Do it like the danes ... grab a bike and explore the city!

Below you'll find a map with my favorite spots in the city:

{YELLOW}  Nyhavn
{GREEN} Christiania
{BLUE} Tivoli
{RED} Orsteds Park, Botanical Garden, Peblinge lake

I gotta be honest, I wasn't well prepared, and didn't know anything about Copenhagen. All I knew was, that they served great food, own an impressive music scene, and got lots of beautiful danes. We decided to hit Copenhagen by car and the ferry, that we took on the german shore. Seven hours of driving, 1 hour on the ferry, and another 90 minutes to reach Copenhagen.

We  booked a double room at the WAKE-UP hotel, for an unbelievable cheap rate. The good thing about the hotel, was its central location, and the indoor-parking lot just below the hotel. The lobby and check-in desk, were just a few steps away from our car. 

The Tivoli amusement park was in the same neighbour-hood. Amusement park sounds more like a playground for kids, but that wasn't the case. The vintage touch of Tivoli, the green areas in the center of the park, sunbeds, restaurants and bars, ... all this made me appreciate the park as well. It's a nice place to relax with your girlfriend or kids after a vivid sightseeing day.

Christiania probably was the most eye-opening part of our trip. It's considered as a free-state right in the heart of Copenhagen. Taking photos behind the walls, which surround Christiania, is not allowed. As soon as you try to get one single photo of the location, there's already someone shouting at you, or tapping on your shoulder. The main reason would be, that you're allowed to buy just any kind of drugs. To avoid that the "dealers" could be recognized on tourists' photos, the use of cameras is not allowed. Besides the drugs, it still looks like the common danish neighbourhood. Plenty of wooden houses, a big lake, diy (do-it-yourself) markets and shops, a beer-garden, ... and no cars. That same night, after we had visited Christiania, i read a couple of articles, about the riots and shootings, when the governement tried to take over that part of the city. As far as I could experience Christiania it felt like a very peaceful place. 

I just loved Nyhavn. The lovely harbor alley, where a narrow canal leads to the big sea. The alley is packed with restaurants, bars, and some tattoo parlours. Enjoy some delicious sea food, watch the hipsters sitting next to the canal, and the danes docking their boats. It's a very busy and crowded place. At the end of the alley, you will notice the NOMA restaurant, just across the river. NOMA has been considered for a couple of years, as being the best restaurant in the world. In Nyhavn you can buy a ticket for a boat-tour. Usually i'm not a big fan of guided bus tours, but the boat tour, will bring you to areas, which are only accessible by boat. Totally worth it!

I discovered the northern part of the city center on a quiet sunday morning. I was looking for the tattoo parlour of a very famous danish tattoo artist. I planned to check out all the single parks which were on my path to the studio. I walked through Orsteds Park, the Botanical Garden with its castle to cross the bridges of the  Peblinge lake. Well they weren't the most prettiest parks I've been at so far, but it felt like the right spot to visit on a sunday morning, if you're just fed up with crowded streets, and the millions of bicycles passing by. Yes I said millions... if you think you've seen loads of cycles in Amsterdam, well, you haven't visited Copenhagen yet!

For early bookers, Copenhagen can be a bargain if you're on a budget. Food and alcohol isn't as expensive as in Sweden, or Norway. I barely couldn't notice a difference in prices compared to our capital in Luxembourg. I'm definitely going back pretty soon. There's still so much left undiscovered, and next time I'll do my homework, and visit the city better prepared.


TOKIO {BUDAPEST}

I just returned back home from my 3rd trip to the lovely city of Budapest. After visiting and testing some of their fantastic restaurants, I knew within a heartbeat that I got to write about the great japanese fusion restaurant "TOKIO" in Budapest, which is located nearby the St. Stephan Basilica, at Zrinyi Street.

On my very first trip I tried different kinds of makis, and they were all delicious. Of course they didn't blew me away like the ones I had in Japan. But I gotta admit, they put much more creativity and details on their sushis and makis at "TOKIO". It's just the right fusion of japanese and european cuisine. 

The chicken ramen was very delicious as well. Not as a fatty as the ones I tried in Japan. I guess they adapted it to the 37°C we had outside, while having lunch. Some light soja dashi & tare, vegetables, chicken, thin sliced scallions... a fest!

This time I tried their bento box. It was just too hot outside, to have a bigger lunch. The bento box consisted of some fried tofu with spicy mushrooms, gyozas, avocado makis, a salad, prawns tempura. Every small mouth-watering dish in that bento box, fulfilled the expectations of my japanese heart.

Another huge plus of the restaurant is its very colorful, and eye-catching design, that reminds you of of the "Bladerunner" city. The tables, chairs, and bar look rather classy. What a catch !

Compared to other restaurants in the city, it's quite pricey. Expect to spend at least 30 euro {36 us$} for an average size lunch, with drinks. The sushis & makis are pretty expensive, for a city, where drinking and eating is considered as rather cheap. But for myself, it was totally worth it. 

I always got the finest table service, which is also included in the final price. Therefor, no tip needed. 

Great location, great views, lovely waiters, an eye-catching design, delicous food... enjoy "TOKIO". Oishii ne !?

Adress: 1051 BUDAPEST, SZÉCHENYI T 7-8
Website: tokiobudapest.com

 

 

 

Istanbul

I just turned back home from the beautiful turkish city Istanbul. It was my first trip to Turkey, so I really didn't know what to expect from that multicultural city. We spent 5 nights in the area of Karakoy, which apparently is becoming Istanbul's hotspot.

 

Istanbul is divided into 3 main areas :

  • Eminönü & Fatih 
  • Beyoglu & Besiktas 
  • and the asian shore Üsküdar & Kadiköy.

Eminönü & Fatih

Eminönü and Fatih are located in the older part of Istanbul, which is famous for its mosques and lots of historical buildings like Topkapi Palace and the Hagia Sophia. It was the first area I visited on our first day in Istanbul. We spent a whole day on that side of the city, and we could have spend another whole day to check out every corner on the west-side. Among the mosques you will find countless streets filled with markets, the Grand-Bazaar and the famous Spice-Market. At different times a day you will hear the prayers through the speakers who are attached on the mosque's towers. For myself it was the most interesting and unique part of Istanbul, and it's the place where you certainly will feel like a total stranger.

 

Beyoglu & Besiktas

We stayed at the hotel Grandiva in Karakoy, just across the Galata Bridge at the modern part of Istanbul. In my opinion it was the best spot for a hotel. You could reach the old part of Istanbul within a 10-minutes walk, and it took the same time to reach the Galata Tower. From Galata Tower, it's easy to get to the Istiklal avenue, a super long avenue, which leads to the popular Taksim area.

It felt like, that the modern area had culturally less to offer than Eminönü, but still there was so much to check out: too many restaurants, different spots where nightlife takes place, an endless shopping street, streetfood-stalls, and many historical buildings.

The neighbourhood of the Galata Tower was packed with a diversity of people, the youngsters, the hipsters, the older generation, the hippies. In the evening many people were sitting on the pavement around the tower to chit-chat, and share food & drinks.

While walking down the less attractive Istiklal avenue, you had the choice between hundreds of restaurants, from every price-range. After dinner, we hit the Taksim block, which was filled with quite a diversity of bars and smaller clubs. Arsen Lüpen would be an interesting bar to check out. On thursday nights, they host a jam-session, where everyone can join the stage, to play an instrument or sing with other musicians. No entrance fee, some crazy dancing and lots of fun!

On our second last night in Istanbul, we met a lovely local girl who brought us to the nightlife-heart of Karakoy which is located on Mumhane street and Kemankes street. It was the hippest part we discovered in Istanbul, and i'm pretty sure, the next time I'm gonna visit Istanbul again, this will be the place I'm going to hang out every night! It's the most attractive nightlife spot, and it's packed with too many beautiful people.

At the Grandiva Hotel we had the chance to get delicious breakfast in the morning. However if you miss the breakfast-hour, check out the Güney restaurant next to Galata Tower. It offers a variety of typical turkish breakfasts, for an affordable price of course! And you get taken care of by some turkish hipsters :). 

 

Prince's Islands

On our third day we planned walking towards the Bosphorus Bridge, but it was just too far away from out hotel. At the first ferryboat station, we decided to buy a ticket to get to the asian side of Istanbul faster. As a total stranger in Istanbul, we didn't thought about carrying our passport. 

We opted to check out one of the 9 princes' islands. Büyükada is the biggest one. A ferry ticket to the big island was around 6 turkish liras [2 euro, 3 us$]. A bargain! But we didn't know it would take us 2 hours to reach the island! 2 hours with too many people aboard, and we got a free sunburn. If you get the chance to catch a direct ferry from Istanbul to Büyükada or the other way around, it will still take you an hour at least.

Different travel-websites recommended to visit at least one of the islands, and considered Büyükada and Adalar as a must-see. I wouldn't recommend the island of Büyükada to anyone. It definitely was a beautiful place. So many beautiful victorian houses, no cars allowed on the island, lots of nature and parks, and great views of the ocean. But that was all it had to offer. The pier-area, where you get off the ferry, is packed with too many tourists, and every shop-owners wants you to buy food, drinks, and just any kind of presents. Once you get out of that mass of people, you're slowly walking into the silent streets of the city. 

But there are just too many horse-carriages on the streets of Büyükada. The constant noise of the horse-shoes ruins the vibe of the island. Most restaurants look very touristic, most people you will walk by will be tourists, and the shops are tourist-traps as well. 

If you love hiking or if you are into floral photography, it's definitely a place to check out. If you prefer the city life and hunting for must-see-spots of Istanbul, I wouldn't recommend you "Büyükada".

 

My thoughts about Istanbul

To be honest, the first 48 hours, I didn't have the feeling of being welcomed by the turkish people, especially the turkish men. It wasn't as bad as in Moscow, but still I had mixed feelings for Istanbul. Most of the men were unfriendly, not helpful towards tourists, some bumped into you without apologizing, even at the bars or restaurants, there was barely no communication. You could hardly notice a smile on their faces.

Things changed when we went out at night. Different hours, different people. It was quite easy to get into conversations with the locals. Especially with girls. Most of the women & girls, religious or non-religious, were super friendly, and totaly helpful. They showed us different places in the city, and introduced us to the turkish cuisine: turkish coffe followed by a coffee-ground-clairvoyance, the delicious streetfood mussels, turkish Ayran [iced water, yogurt, salt], and other turkish street food specialties.

We met many lovely turkish people! And during my last hours in Turkey, when we headed back to the airport, I felt like I needed to get back to Istanbul very soon! There's still so much to discover, so many turkish dishes to check out, and too many lovely Turks to meet. 

 

Useful informations

  • The taxi-ride from Atatürk airport to the Galata Bridge takes about 35 to 45 minutes, and costs around 50-60 turkish liras [20 euros, 24 us$].
  • Food is cheap. Booze isn't. A menu at a touristic restaurant [entree & main dish] with water and a glass of wine mostly costs around 20-30 euros [26-34 us$]. Longdrinks costs 25 turkish liras [7-9 euros, 10-11us$]. Cheapest drinks would be water, softdrinks and beer.
  • A single ticket for the tram-ride in the city center costs 4 TL [1.3 euros, 2us$]
  • A one-way ferry ticket costs around 4-6 TL.

 

 

Krakow.

Last winter we decided to celebrate new year's eve in Krakow, Poland. We were looking for a city we haven't visited yet, and which was afordable at the same time. Without any big expectations we flew to Krakow. I didn't have any clue about the country, nor the city before my arrival at the airport. Our gentle cabdriver Jozef drove us to our hotel at Jozefa street, which was located in Kazimierz, the old jewish neighbourhood.

Krakow is  a small city. I'd recommend it as a lovely weekend trip of 3-4 days, which would be long enough to discover the beauties in and around the city.

My favorite part of Krakow was Kazimierz, because it was full of street art, new discoveries around every corner. It was the right mix of old historical buildings and modern art. Kazimierz is very lively at night. There are plenties of bars, and a big diversity of restaurants. I'd recommend to try every single polish dish in the city, because their food is amazingly delicious. I'd go for Pierogis [polish dumplings] any day! Check out the restaurant "Starka" at Jozefa Street, a lovely arty restaurant, which serves polish dishes. great wines and home-made vodkas.

The main square of the city, would be the place that reflects the image of Krakow the most. It's a huge place surrounded by old cathedrals and historical buildings. I think it's the biggest square i've ever been at. Because we were visting for new year's eve, the whole place was covered with food stalls, and a big christmas market [yes, after Christmas]. Same as Kazimierz, the square is surrounded by hundreds of restaurants and all kind of bars, jazz clubs, sports pubs, and old polish tavernes. The Royal Castle is just inbetween Kazimierz and the city's main square.

While in Krakow, I guess it's a must to visit Auschwitz, or in polish Oświęcim. Visiting a concentration camp was still on my check list. During highschool we had to read so many books about 2nd world war, and the concentration camps across Europe, that I had to witness this monsterous place on my own. Our cabdriver Jozef picked us up at our hotel, and drove us to Auschwitz, which took us about 50 minutes by car. The guided tour lasts approximately 2 hours. After Auschwitz you get another short busride which will bring you to Birkenau. Visiting both camps takes half a day. 

After Auschwitz Jozef took us to Wieliczka Salt Mine which is located nearby Krakow. The Wieliczka mine is often referred to as the Underground Salt Cathedral of Poland. Now it's hard to tell if the salt mine is a tourist trap or not. Some rooms, mostly at the bottom of the salt mine, were quiet impressive, considering that all the statues,  chandeliers, stairs, have been carved out of saltblocks. The floor, the ceilings ... they're all made out of salt. The negative part of the saltmine was the guided tour. We had a lovely guide, but the tour just lasted too long. 

Sadly I can't tell what Krakow looks like in summer. We had some pretty cold and grey days in Poland, but they were the right match for the new year's eve vibe, and our visit of Auschwitz. Depsite the freezing weather, Kaziemierz was always busy at night, same for the main square area. We met a couple of polish people, who they were all super welcoming. It's a cheap city, so it allows you to have a good time, and enjoy your stay without carrying too much about your wallet.

 
 

Reykjavik & the Iceland Airwaves Festival.

I was really excited about going to Iceland. I startet listening to the icelandic band "Sigur Ros" when i was 15 or 16 years old. It's an amazing and unique band, which totally "sounds like iceland", and their music videos are packed with the most beautiful icelandic natural spectacles. My mind got tricked with many clichés: epic natural panoramas, woolen sweaters, lots of sea food, and good music. The clichés turned out to be right. 

 

After a friend had told me about the annual music festival called "iceland airwaves", which takes place in Reykjavik, I had to google it online. I was instantly conviced. Reading more and more about that festival, I got the message that "ICELAND AIRWAVES" is a festival for music lovers, purists, ....yeah for the music snobs :). I had to get there! 200 concerts a day, during 5 days! Over 1000 concerts in different places all over the city! Some of the bands which were playing at the festival, were still on my check-list. I needed to get to Iceland! I bought an early-bird ticket for Iceland Airwaves almost 10 months before the event. After i found a package-deal (hotel&flight) for 350 euro, instead of 650 euro, it was a done deal! [fyi check out "WOW Airline" for the cheapest flights from London].

 

My first impressions I got after spending some days in Reykjavik, or mainly in Iceland:

• After my arrival at the airport I noticed the difference in design and warm decor of the airport.
Keflavik (international airport of Iceland), which probably is the nicest airport i've ever visited. Later I noticed that the hotels & shops which looked alike, were heavily influenced by the nordic design that we know from Ikea, Sweden or Norway. Simple, but unique.

• Pretty designs, pretty people. Icelandic people are beautiful people. Crazy that there are barely no obese icelandics. All the icelandics i observed in Reykjavik and some other cities, looked pretty fit, thin, and had the most pretty faces. If you're on the hunt for your next partner, go visit Iceland ! :)

• I expected lots of delicious sea food and traditional icelandic dishes. But many locals strongly recommended me to avoid those dishes. I had a fish soup on daily basis, which was the best fish soup i ever had. I also had the worst sush i ever had in Reykjavik, even though I never had bad sushi before. Gastronomical wise...Iceland wasn't a big fish. They had lots of fast-food restaurants, or the typical greasy dishes you get in every other country, for example: fish&chips.

• Is everybody an artist or a musician in Iceland? I read that 60-65% of the icelandic population lives in the area around Reykjavik. The festival line-up was packed with too many fantastic bands from Iceland. Bands which have a hard time getting famous outside of their country. I dont get it. So many talented musicians live in Iceland, with a unique sound, beautiful music and lots of talents (some band names to check out: Valdimar, Rokkurro, Vök, Jonsi, Sigur Ros, Asgeir, ...and so many more). I became a huge fan of their music-scene. 

• YES Iceland is VERY expensive. 12 euro for a gin tonic. 6 euro for a beer. 22 euro for a soup, water, and a coffee. 55 euro for sushi. I got a rental car for 24h, a cheap Toyota Yaris [shitty car] but it was cheaper than the sushi i had the night before. Food and drinks are very expensive. Busrides were expensive as well, when you didn't have the exact change. Busride was 350 kroners. So you needed at least 4 coins to get the 350 kroners together. 4 Tickets a day, makes a lot of change. I rarely carried that much change in my pocket. Most of the time I had to pay with a 500 kroners bill. And you never get any change back from the bus-driver. TAXI is SUPER EXPENSIVE. Dont ever take a cab in iceland.

• The most impressive thing I saw in Iceland, was the amazing nature! So many waterfalls, geisyrs, rivers, oceans, mountains, crazy sunsets, northern lights.... a blast of an natural experience! Take many storage-cards with you, because you're going to need them for the photos. The nature-scenery often looks unreal. I've seen so much beauty in 5 days traveling. Japan was quite impressive, but nature-wise no country beats Iceland.

The only thing I would reconsider, the next time I'm going to visit Iceland, don't do sightseeing and a music festival in one day. It's just too much, too much to appreciate at once. On my next travels to Iceland I'd consider doing a roadtrip for 5-6 days across the whole island, and then do 3 days of one of their popular music festival [Iceland Airwaves or Secret Solstice].

Oh i forgot about another fact that stroke me while being in Iceland... the pride of the icelandics! Does it sound bad, if I say "pride" ? I guess not. The people who live on that iceland, who grew up over there, are proud of what they have around them. They don't brag, or show their pride that much, as we know it from the U.S. "'muricaaaaaaa". But the way they talk, welcome people, their daily clothes... you can feel that they're pride of where they come from. You don't see a lot of immigrants,  barely none... You never feel walking around in a melting pot, with different cultures, it's just icelandic people around you. And I kind of like it when people are proud of their own culture, and the history that made their country, a fact that makes their country unique. Somehow it reminded me of Japan. It's a nice to see that a country doesn't lose its own face. 

Budapest

I visited a lot of cities in Europe, some were more impressive, others more entertaining, but I gotta admit ... for now ... that Budapest became my favorite european city. I first discovered the beautiful capital of Hungary last summer in July 2014. My first trip lasted 5 nights, and after that short trip, I knew I had to turn back. So I booked another flight to Budapest for September 2014. After those 2 trips last year, I'm heading back this summer in August 2015.

There is so much to discover and to enjoy in Budapest. The city is packed with delicious restaurants, beautifully designed bars, and lots of historical sights. The main attractions are located centrally. Most parts are reachable by walking distances, so public transportation isn't needed. For the 10 days i spent in the capital, we always had the best weather.

Let's start with the north of the city-center, where the Budapest City Park Városliget is located. You can spend a couple of hours in that part of city. The beautiful park is surrounded by historical buildings & castles, the famous heroes square, a big pond, and a bunch of restaurants.  I'd recommend the restaurant "Robinson" and its charming outdoor dining area, where you can try some delicious hungarian dishes, and a panoramic view of the pond the park is included with your hungarian goulash. :) Inside the park, there's the famous and biggest thermal bath of Budapast "Széchenyi". It's an eyecatcher for sure, and you will feel like taking a bath in the 19th century. Every weekend they organize an open-air party at the Széchenyi  thermal bath. Even if it's cold or raining, the warm temperature of the water, will put you at ease.

 

If you're booking a hotel room, I'd recommend looking for the area nearby the St. Stephen's Basilica. In my opinion that's the very center of the city. You can reach anything within walking distance. Just in front of the basilica starts the Zrinyi Street, which is packed with restaurants, and some of the most popular clubs and bars of Budapest. The Erzsébet Square is only 3 minutes walking away from the basilica. The square is a beautiful and hip place to hangout all day in summer time. People are cooling down their foot in the small pool, you can have food at the nearby open-air dining area, or you just go clubbing at the Akvarium Club which is located below the square in the basement floor.

The southern part of the city, which is located on the BUDA side of the Danube river, is reachable within 20 minutes. Just pass the Széchenyi Chain Bridge, and follow the path to the top of the Buda Castle, or the less tiring option would be the elevator. From the top of the hill, you can enjoy the the beautiful skyline of the PEST side of the city. You get pretty much the same view from different areas of the BUDA side. The Citadella fortress on the south-east side is totally worth the hike. It's even higher than the Buda castle, and on the top there's beautiful botanical garden (during summer time), once you walk down the citadella hill, you will reach the famous thermal bath Gellert. Passing Gellert, and moving over the bridge back to the Pest side, you will hit the Central Market Hall, which is worth a visit. 

 

WHAT KEEPS ME GOING BACK TO BUDAPEST ...

• it never gets boring. I guess i've seen most of the main attractions, but just walking through the streets of Budapest is totally enjoyable. Everyone is super friendy, and everyone I met speaks english, even the older generation. 

• it's cheap ! Like many eastern-european cities, food & drinks are half the price than central Europe.  It's a great city, to go out dining in a restaurant everyday. Expect to pay around 10 euro [13 Us$] for a starter, the main dish, a coffee, 2 softdrinks and a glass of wine. Half a pint of beer is around 1 euro, gin&tonic is around 3.50 euro, and a cocktail around 5 euro. 

• it's a lively city. I've only been there twice, but during those trips there was a biiiig beer festival in the mainstreet of the center, a food festival, parties on the cruising-ship, parties at the thermal bath, a techno party at the Margit Island... Budapest people know how to enjoy life. The city has a big diversity of bars, wine bars, restaurants... boredom never comes up.

• it's easy to meet people in Budapest. Not only locals, but during summer season, there are lots of tourists and students all over the city. Is it annoying ? Not really, there are so many different places to hang out that you won't notice the huge amount of tourists in the city. Budapest women are very pretty as well ! Classy, and good looking... Sorry girls, I can't tell about the men. :)

I had such a great time in Budapest, that it keeps me from visiting the beautiful city of Prague. Both cities often get compared with each other, that's why I'm afraid of not enjoy Prague that much, after I fell i love with Budapest.

 

• Here's a gallery of the photos I took during my trip : Budapest